By Elizabeth Roller
I travel a lot and I travel often. Between corporate jigs, apartments and holidays, travel can get a bit hectic sometimes. You know what they say about the hustle…for me it was three weddings, Diwali, a trip to the US for Christmas followed by New Year’s Eve back in Delhi and the start of a brand new job. It was a blast, but also exhausting in that “wouldn’t change a thing” kind of way. Luckily for you, me and everyone we know, I found the perfect weekend getaway for a quick refresh. When Windsong, a beautifully curated B&B in the heart of Amritsar invited me over a weekend- I was super stoked. Windsong is a charming, boutique homestay property located a short drive from the Amritsar airport and if I might say so already- the best place for a short getaway from Delhi.
I did intend to visit the beautiful town of Amritsar with a friend but she had to regretfully decline last minute and well, that meant that I would spend time by myself doing what I love a lot- slow travel, naps and a lot of eating.
At Windsong, in the midst of bright yellow mustard fields, life flows at a different pace. For city dwellers, the overworked and busybody- this place is the perfect antidote to dreary city life. You feel more centered and settled and instead of hurrying through your meals- you can enjoy languid meals with friends or the hosts. Fitted with the most beautiful accents, a lovely family home beckons you to laze around, eat your body weight in Amritsari fish and enjoy kadak masala chai. There’s a lovely garden with lounge chairs for you to nap, read a book or to enjoy an alfresco breakfast. Each of the rooms is named after a river in Punjab: Satluj (Sutlej), Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Beas .
Breakfast at Windsong is very special with locally sourced ingredients with a whole lot of love by the home cook and whether you want muesli and fruit or fried eggs with toast- it can all be organised for you. You can explore Amritsar or stay indoors and relax within the peaceful confines of the property. While some of you might want to exercise or do yoga, others can cosy up with a book and a bottle of wine as time really slows down here. Guests usually come back famished from visits about town and tuck into a delicious meal at dinnertime before they retreat to their rooms. If you want to take the decadence up a few notches, the team at Windsong can also organise an indulgent ritual or a massage at the spa.
I went with the intention of exploring the city and Amritsari culture, but honestly I could have stayed at the villa for the entire weekend. Meeting the hosts felt like being welcomed in by my own family. My train was late (helloooo Shatabdi!) and I’d slept most of the way, so I arrived starving. The Sehgals not only had a driver to meet me at the station, but also had hot lunch waiting for me when I arrived. I would highly recommend opting for home cooking for as many meals as possible during your stay. They source just about everything locally..and by locally, I mean the vegetables came from the farm across the road. I tried black carrots kanji for the first time (pickled with mustard seed) – super for the gut flora and as good for you as kombucha is. Oh and don’t get me started on the sarson ka saag with makai ki roti (stewed mustard greens on cornmeal flatbread, topped with butter and a tiny bit of brown sugar). I couldn’t get enough of the flavours and ate enough for a family of four.
Prerna and her mother Ritika are delightful hosts. They sat down with me for lunch, to tell me more about their beautiful home and their family, and to help decide what I wanted to fit in, while in Amritsar. Of course my answer was “all of it!” They quickly got a sense that my top loves are history, handicrafts and culinary finds, and had so very many options at their fingertips. If you are feeling guilty about indulging on amritsari fare, typically high calorie and carb laden, you can request them to organise a yoga session for you.
Within the full weekend we managed to fit in: a visit to the Partition Museum,two evenings of food touring (be brave! try everything!),the closing of the border gate between India and Pakistan (this was fascinating. The energy on both sides was palpable.) The Mata Lal Devi Mandir (loved the details on the mosaics and the colours) and later the Golden Temple at night (the reflections of the temple in the water are stunning). Lest I forget, we also went on a leisurely tractor ride into the nearby village for chai and shop visits to learn about juttis, handwoven cashmere, wool and silk and phulkari embroidery. If this hasn’t convinced you already, they organised a local masseuse to come to “press my feet”. I highly recommend this after a long day of shopping and being on your feet. Needless to say, I slept like a baby after this massage.
The amenities at Windsong are delightful and well thought out. There’s a picturesque pool for sunbathing and to work up an appetite for lunch, gardens for lounging, a library full of books, music and movies, a spa room for massages or facials and they’re even working on a game room for kids. It was perfect for a solo trip, but I could also imagine coming back for a romantic weekend, or to relax with my family or girlfriends. The Sehgals will help you customize your trip once you’ve arrived and settled in, and they’ve started to get a sense of your interests and what you might enjoy the most.
If I had to share my recommendations for Amritsar, I’d go with the following:
-All the food! I lucked out with both home cooking and the best of Amritsar’s street food. I’m hard pressed to pick favorites, but I especially loved the Amritsari fried fish, homemade pickled black carrots with mustard seed, and the very best chicken I’ve ever tasted…tandoori with a lemony butter glaze.
-Picking out a book from the Sehgals’ extensive library and soaking in the jacuzzi bubble bath for a while (just don’t drop the book in). I would love another good soak in the jacuzzi with a nice bottle of red to unwind.
-The Golden Temple at night. Everyone probably has their own favorite time to visit, but for me, the beauty of the glittering temple reflecting in the water was just so stunning. Don’t forget to roll up your sleeves and help out in the Golden Temple’s community kitchen.
-Visiting a factory known for handwoven scarves and shawls.I touched some of the softest scarves I’ve ever seen, and also got to meet the artisans making them. One of my favorite things is to see how something beautiful is made, and to meet the artisans crafting the pieces.
Verdict- the best hosts, delicious food and an indulgent jacuzzi session at the end of the day makes Windsong the perfect place for a getaway for young couples, families and even solo travelers. Ritika and her mom go out of their way to make sure all your requests are looked into and they know their way around Amritsar very well so you don’t ever have to worry about where to buy juttis or where you should eat the best fish.
About me:
In 2015, I quit my job in Philadelphia, rented out my home and hopped on a plane to start a new career, in a new city, in a new country. I haven’t looked back since! I’m a lover of travel, food and wine, vintage and handcrafted textiles, stray animals, trying new things and jigsaw puzzles. When not roaming the highways of Delhi NCR in an Uber, you can find me on a never-ending quest to find the best cup of coffee, glass of prosecco or tiny, secret, hidden shop/stall/food joint that a stranger mentioned in passing.
The Hosts-Ritika and Vivek Sehgal stay in the same premises along with their two kids Prerna & Jai; 5 dogs and a gorgeous horse. Vivek is a movie buff with a passion for music and gardening! Join him for a glass of wine in the evenings and enjoy some music from his handpicked collection. Ritika is a homemaker with a passion for cooking and interior design.You will find her around the property making sure everything is perfect and convincing you to have another glass of lassi!
Prerna lives in a world of cheesy Bollywood movies, caffeine and food! When she’s not creating new social media strategies for her clients, you’ll find her looking up new places to eat or travel to! She’s your “Go-To” girl for chirpy gossip, local advice or an impromptu cupcake! Jai is an animal lover and an equestrian enthusiast taking care of his family run business.In his free time you’ll usually find him with his 5 dogs or riding his horse next door and will be happy to give you a lesson or two!
Quick Notes:
Windsong B&B
8/9 Palm Grove,
Amritsar,
Punjab 143001
Doubles from 6000
https://www.windsongboutiquebnb.com
