Photo credits -Nicole Alice and Zoe Ray Tuckey

Mussoorie holds a very special place in my heart. She was a kind of mother to me, raising me along with her countless trees, and teaching me the ways of a mountain baby. I used to sit for hours on the edge of her forests as a child mixing mud and making concoctions out of berries and leaves and serving them to my family. Mussoorie is layered in pine forests, awe inspiring sunrises and sunsets and not to mention stunning walks anywhere you turn.

I make it a point to visit the hill station yearly and the magic of her has never worn off. Although my love for her is nostalgic and sentimental, I have seen her hypnotise everyone who has seen her for the first time. Mussoorie is a mere six hour train and taxi ride away from one of India’s busiest cities, and most people are shocked to find such solitude and tranquillity so close to the chaos of Delhi.

It had been over a year since my last visit so I went up with a couple of childhood friends. I did discover that my stomach was not as strong as it used to be, and the winding hills up from Dehradun to Mussoorie were not being kind to me, on the way back I made sure to take an anti nausea pill and was good as gold. The first thing that hit me was the smell of the forest, a beautiful heady smell coupled with the crisp coolness of fresh air. After a few days of being there I noticed it was easier to breathe as my lungs recovered from the city smog.

I always make the most of the beautiful scenery, taking every opportunity to walk. I always walk from the very top of Mullingar to the Bazaar. Over the years it has become an interest point for many tourists, which for me as an ex-local makes me a little protective, although I’m sure the local shop owners are happy.

Where to stay: I have always been lucky enough to have a house to stay in Mussoorie, and I spent the nights cuddled by a fireplace watching unhealthy amounts of Downton Abbey, but there are beautiful hotels and guesthouses dotted throughout the hillside.

Rokeby Manor is a revamped heritage building that has been a source of much rest and respite for travellers. The Little Spa and Salon Shed is a must-visit, offering a range of massages and beauty treatments. Rokeby even has an outdoor Jacuzzi overlooking the mountainside. Their in-season room tariff ranges from INR6000 – 14000 per night with buffet breakfast included in their gorgeous restaurant once again equipped with a beautiful view.

If you’re looking for a 5-star experience why not check out Jaypee Residency Manor. When I was seven years old I heard rumours of my favourite actress, Karishma Kapoor staying there and I imagined bumping into her in town, it never happened of course. Jaypee still holds a certain charm for me being somewhere I could see from the roof of my first house in Mussoorie. I imagine it offers everything a 5-star hotel would. At this point it still remains a thing of my dreams, and sometimes maybe it is better that way.

Where to eat:
There are some restaurants that have been around for years whose sentimental value holds more weight for me than great cuisine; such as Kalsang, Rice Bowl and Four Seasons. I saw other new restaurants and Cafes with beautiful interior décor but I did not venture in this time. If any of you have been to Café De Tavern I’d love to hear how you found it! While the Bazaar has a lovely vibe I generally do my token visit and proceed to hide away in the hills where many people don’t venture.

Char Dukan is a famous row of four shops whose owners have been there for ages; most of whom have seen us grow up, some of us bringing our own kids back to eat Wai-Wai or cheese toast with locally made cheese. To wash down the shamefully delicious junk food my favourite drink is always Anil’s special Honey, Ginger and Lemon tea. No matter what I do I can’t get mine to taste as good as his!

Right near Char Dukan is a new café called Café Ivy. I saw it during a walk and marvelled at it’s cute exterior promising myself that I’d come back. My friend and I had a drink at Anil’s to make sure he knew where our loyalty lay, and snuck into Café Ivy. I immediately regretted only visiting on my last day. It was perfect, from its pinecone inlaid floors, and gorgeous log-cabin interior, to its magnificent view of the mountains. We ordered a stack of buttermilk pancakes soaked in maple syrup to share and a latte each and stared out of a huge window, taking countless photos that didn’t quite capture the beauty of the moment. Our friends back at the house texted us to come home and I literally replied “I’m sorry we’re under a spell and can not move”. While the buttermilk pancakes were delicious I hope their coffee improves, but with that view I was in no mood to complain.

If you are craving a good coffee then you must visit Little Llama Café. It’s run by a very friendly couple for 6 months out of the year. They serve a killer Latte, as well as a range of herbal teas, hot soups, falafel and hummus platters, and healthy salads.

Just like I know every twist and turn of Mussoorie like the back of my hand I know that you’ll love it. Whoever you are. Something about the hill station will stir you to the core and make you want to come back for more. It will get under your skin and you’ll find yourself at Char Dukan.

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